Surfing in Scotland


I first tried surfing at college when I went to Swansea.  I had no concept of the fact that people actually did this in the UK till my first day there whilst I was taking a drive out to Caswell Bay to see the beach. I remember seeing a guy getting changed in the car park and wondering what on earth was going on. That soon led to it being me getting changed in the car park because I just had to try it!
Surfing wasn’t so well known back then and there weren’t any surf schools around.  My biggest regret is never getting lessons - a few good lessons can set you on the right track very quickly. The correct size board is equally important. So I had neither and didn’t progress before sadly leaving the area.
Years later I have dabbled in surfing again but time doesn’t make you any better I have learnt! But you know what? It doesn’t matter. I guess it didn't really back then either. It’s not about surfing the biggest  big waves, the best reef breaks and looking incredibly cool whilst doing so. Although looking cool would be nice.....
It’s always been about the rush of being in the waves, that amazing feeling of paddling around in calm, glassy conditions, being in the ocean, connected to the water. Lying on the board as it rises and falls gently with the motion of the swell. And caching a wave, the immense thrill and rush of being in tune with the power of water. What a high! Even if it ends with a face full of water it doesn’t matter. It’s all about being in nature and loving every moment.


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